Vel! Vel! -Thaipusam at Batu Caves

Thaipusam was a week away but the MCG ( Malaysian Culture Group) members organised an outing to witness this important festival in the Hindu calendar. Thaipusam is a day of penance and thanksgiving. Hindus believe that sins can be cleansed during Thaipusam. The festival commemorates the killing of the demon Soorapadman by Lord Muruga.

It was Sunday and we met Cheryl, our coordinator for the outing at the main entrance of Batu Caves temple, after having battled traffic congestion. Today the devotees were already paying homage to Lord Muruga.

No one can miss Batu Caves, the limestone outcrop in Gombak district. On reaching there, rising above the ground, is the world's largest 100 foot golden statue of Lord Muruga. In the Temple cave resides the deity, Lord Muruga. Being the month of Thai ( late January - early February) in the Tamil calendar, this festival draws the largest number of devotees, estimated at 1.5 million.

On the eve of the festival the image of Lord Muruga , bejewelled , seated on a silver chariot is pulled by two bulls leaves Sri Maha Mariamman temple in Petaling Street in a grand procession to Batu Caves. Thousands of coconuts are also smashed along the route of the procession. People line the appointed route to witness this procession and to pay homage too. This eight hour procession culminates in a flight of 272 steps to the top of the Temple cave.

Devotees carry kavadis ('burdens' in Tamil) - paal kudams (milk pots), portable altars decorated with peacock feathers, small or big kavadis, all the way to the top. Chants of 'Vel! Vel!' ring out with the steps taken.

I'm glad to say 'I made it!' - to witness Thaipusam festival at first hand in Batu Caves. Thanks to the MCG for organising it, well in advance of the hundreds of thousands that throng this festival. All these years, it was the phobia of the crowds that kept me away. I have to say, there were already many people on the day we visited . Walking up the steps was an exercise in patience and humility. It was orderly - thank God!

So, here I am, no more the armchair viewer to give my personal account of Thaipusam. It's hard not to be blown away, especially by a first -time experience. My senses were literally assaulted - to see faith binding the faithfuls in such an affirming way. Also, the colours and sounds and smells make Thaipusam such a great attraction. Barely an hour had passed when I checked my watch, and I thought I had been there for a couple of hours. Every turn of the head, there was something happening to arrest my eyes - by the river, at the foothills, up the steps and right up in the Temple cave.

Was I afraid of the devotees in trance? Not really, as long as I kept my distance and they were just doing their 'calling'. For some faint -hearted, this heightened state of being might disturb them.

Definitely the kavadi bearers are the highlight of the rituals. For some, carrying kavadis can be a penance for sin or to overcome some bad karma and others to fulfil vows taken.

Here, there and everywhere, families were gathered to seek closeness with their deity. Definitely, it was a journey of faith and devotion.

Hues of yellow, orange, red flowers decorate the 2 -tiered circular kavadi adorned with peacock feathers and spear. The kavadi bearer is under the the lower frame.

A group of musicians who accompany kavadi bearers - beating and chanting praises for their god, Lord Muruga.

Helpers aplenty dishing out curry (also of rice) from the huge pots to feed the devotees. Giving of food, drinks and other essential services are ways to honour Lord Muruga. Being the holy month of Thaipusam, food is strictly vegetarian.

Not only was a shower a welcome to beat the midday heat but it was essential to cleanse before prayer.

Amidst the hive of activities, there was time to stand still and reflect. A boy stood in front of his father, poised to walk the steps leading up to the Temple.

To the Temple cave - up 272 steps. Young, old, families, kavadi bearers to the abode of Lord Muruga.

A family in the main cave paying their homage to Lord Muruga. On their shoulders are the offerings of milk in the paal kudam (milk pots).

Inside the Temple cave, devotees continue to proceed to another part to finish their pilgrimage to Lord Muruga. The crowds are there but the cool air makes it more bearable to enjoy the atmosphere.

Green is the word, for this devotee in a trance. Bunches of the neem leaves hanging on fish hooks on his back.

Lime covered with saffron, in a heap, ready for a devotee to have them hooked on his back.

To chants of 'Vel! Vel! (the symbol of the golden spear Parvati gave her son, Lord Muruga to vanquish the demons) rows of little silver paal kudams (milk pots) on a devotee's back. It seemed so straightforward an act as the devotee knelt for the ritual. No blood is let.

Brass bells and tiny silver paal kudams (milk pots) hooked on the back of a devotee in a trance

A lady devotee, in a trance with a skewer in her cheek, holding a paal kudam on her head,walking to the Temple . She was followed by family members who 'restrained' her by the chains wrapped round her body. Strict abstinence - food, carnal pleasures etc are observed before a kavadi is carried.

One of the many devotees in a trance wear gold embroidered headwear and flowers on hooks.

A mother and child bonding in an important religious festival.

Not to be left out, a young man helping to shave another on this auspicious day.

Vanity makes way for humility. No sacrifice is too great to celebrate Thaipusam.

Children as much part of the rituals of Thaipusam as the adults. There was a great sense of families coming together to worship their beloved god, Lord Muruga.

Offerings all laid out by the river bank, awaiting prayers before the walk up the steps to the Temple cave.

A family with their paal kudams milk pots)

Getting ready a small kavadi ready for the walk. Note the peacock feathers on the side and the spear in the middle


Sweet slumber, little one! I can't say for sure - but I didn't hear any baby cry in the hive of the Thaipusam activities. Well slung in saffron cradles , suspended on sugar cane stalks, the babies gave a gentle touch to the atmosphere of the pilrimage to Lord Muruga. In return for wishes granted, parents keep their vows and babies are brought before the deity to give thanks.

Grace (from Argentina) and I, after the walk up the 272 steps with the devotees. 'We made it!' she exclaimed. So we did! A spiritual day!

May the blessings of Lord Muruga be upon all !

Batu Caves

Sri Subramaniam Temple

Kuala Lumpur